The BMW HP2 Sport

The BMW HP2 Sport is aimed at purist sports riders and is equipped with many racetrack derived features proven in endurance racing during 2007.

Some parts, such as the race shift for the close ratio gearbox, forged alloy wheels and MotoGP inspired dashboard are making their first appearance in a BMW series production machine.

The BMW HP2 Sport will deliver thoroughbred sports riding on winding country roads as much as on race tracks.

The highly tuned Boxer engine now delivers in excess of 96 kW (130+hp) at 8,750 rpm, even more than the R 1200 S launched in 2006. Peak torque is 115 Nm at 6,000 rpm, while the power doesn't taper until it reaches the lofty red line at 9,500 rpm.

Making the HP2 Sport the highest revving Boxer ever.

Essentially, the BMW HP2 Sport is based on the BMW R 1200 S. But there are significant mechanical differences, along with a new, race-ready composite carbon fibre body, race wheels and optional switchable ABS.

To allow the new HP2 motor to rev so high BMW has evolved a new cylinder head valve gear design for the double overhead camshaft layout, now using a drag lever for valve actuation. Bigger valves are also used. In addition, the double spark plug arrangement used recently on R series machines has been replaced with a single plug per cylinder thanks to radially arranged valves that provide a very compact combustion chamber design.

Further modifications include porting for intake and outlet flows along with new forged pistons and connecting rods, all of which help the engine to rev higher and deliver more power.

The compression ratio is 12.5:1 and the engine runs on 98 RON or above.

A pair of oil coolers is positioned behind the enhanced BMW kidney grilles in the front fairing.

Externally the engine changes are announced via new carbon cylinder head covers fitted with easy-to-replace slip pads made from PA6 hard plastic, an indication of the expected hard cranked over cornering riding style.

A new stainless steel exhaust system is placed below the engine for the first time, while the silencer is of a particularly striking design.

The rerouted two-into-one pipes keep the underside of the bike clear giving even more clearance for heavily banked high speed cornering.

Designed to thrill performance riders, the HP2 Sport comes with a new BMW feature, a race shift that incorporates advanced electronic control to allow the quickest possible gearshifts.

The standard setting is for the rider to use the gear-shifter only, to move up the gearbox. By keeping the throttle open and ignoring the clutch lever, the rider can simply shift up with his foot. The benefit is quicker shifting and thus faster acceleration.

Sophisticated electronics automatically sense the up-shift motion from the shifter and cut the ignition momentarily allowing the shift to take place when the engine is not under load.

If the rider uses the clutch lever a traditional clutched up-change is effected. The default mode is race shift for switching between the six close ratio cogs.

The race shift can also be optionally ordered with a reverse pattern shift and associated software specifically for competition use.

This is the first time BMW has offered a race shift for a series production model.

The BMW HP2 Sport also boasts a sport chassis with fully adjustable Öhlins shocks front and rear, while a Brembo brakes set-up employs four-piston radial mounted callipers at the font grabbing a pair of 320 mm discs. A double sliding piston set up is used at the rear. Braided steel brake lines are used for optimum performance.

Given the enhanced performance it was only natural that BMW engineer a specific and optional switchable ABS system for the HP2 Sport

The BMW HP2 Sport runs on specially developed, weight and stability optimised, surface-milled forged wheels of 3.5 x 17" and 6.0 x 17".

The forged wheels are fitted as standard with high performance tyres (120/70 ZR17 front and 190/55 ZR17 rear).

Optimum ergonomics are ensured by the adjustable forged aluminium footrests, adjustable stock handlebar and radial Magura clutch/brake levers.

The instrument cluster is all digital and is based on a MotoGP set-up, delivering the traditional speed and rev information along with useful race data such as lap times, etc.

Maximising the benefits of the improved power output is a stringent weight optimisation programme which has seen the wide application of lightweight composite carbon fibre for the front fairing and belly pan as well as a simplified rear structure which has an easily unclipped licence plate and tail light. Thus the BMW HP2 can be made race-ready in seconds.

The wind-tunnel honed front fairing is stiff enough to dispense with a subframe, a further weight saving. The front vista is dominated by lightweight, high-luminosity halogen twin headlamps with free-formed surface reflectors surrounded by the exposed carbon fairing and trade-mark kidney grilles which feed air to the oil coolers.

BMW-HP2-Sport

Bike BMW Sport

Bike BMW Sport

Checking Out the Lamborghini Murcielago LP640

Do you love Super Cars? Well if you do then you just have to check out the Lamborghini Murcielago LP640! This Awesome new Lamborghini can really Rock and Roll! With two different body choices available. You can choose between a standard coupe or a convertible roadster. Although the roadster is not really a convertible, it is more like a targa top.

Lamborghini Murcielago LP640 Coupe -

The standard Murcielago LP640 coupe comes with the standard 6.5 liter V12 that pumps out an amazing 632 horsepower and a stum pulling 660 foot pounds of tourqe. To be able to put all that power to the ground takes one heck of a drivetrain.

When you buy the standard coupe you have the choice between the paddle shifted 6 speed e-gear automated clutch manual transmission or the standard Lamborghini 6 speed manual transmission with a gated metal shifter. Also standard on the Murciélago LP640 coupe is all wheel drive, along with front, center, and rear limited slip differentials.

So what does this all meen? It meens 0 to 60 times in the low to mid 3 second range, and a Super Car top speed of 211 miles per hour!

Lamborghini Murcielago LP640 Roadster -

The Lamborghini Murcielago LP640 Roadster is for the person who has money to burn and wants to feel the wind blowing through their hair at speeds in excess of 200 miles per hour. When you decide to buy the Lamborghini Murcielago LP640 Roadster it tacks on an additional $33,000 onto the base price of the standard Murcielago LP640 Coupe. Then if you figure in options, and let me tell you there are a lot of options available. It is very easy to drop another $60,000 or more before you walk out the dealers door!

really is not much different than the standard coupe. It looks pretty much the same. It even has the wonderful head turning scissor doors, but there are a few minor differences. There are additional cooling vents behind the air intakes, and a retractable canvas roof are the main differences. Performance is fairly comparable with the standard coupe. The canvas roof panel is only meant for driving around at normal speeds, and should never be installed when you want to do those high speed runs down the road. It is just made of thin canvas and the back pressure from high speeds has the possibility of sucking off the car.

Overall I don't think it matters whether you pick the coupe or the roadster. Any Super Car that is capable of going 211 miles an hours is a winner in my book!

Ferrari NOVITEC ROSSO Edizione 747 News

Named after the departure of a very large power rating of 747 horsepower, not behind a Boeing 747, Edizione Novitec Rosso 747 series marks the end of the Ferrari 430 model production cycle.

Maranello super lightweight sports car is repaired by one of the world’s leading tuners Ferrari – Novitec Rosso, and clear. Under the hood of the new special Rosso Novitec Bi-747 engine compressor that increases the power of a V8 engine that normally produces 510 hp / 375 kW to 237 hp / 174 kW. With incredible sprint times – 0 to 100 km / h in less than 3.4 seconds, 0 to 200 km / h in just 9.4 seconds and 22.9 seconds with a speed of 300 km / h, 747 is more powerful Edizione and more rapidly in the Scuderia. Speed is 351 km / h

In addition to outstanding performance, which Edizione Novitec Rosso 747 is also the recipient of extraordinary eyes. The two couples special tones of yellow and gray Paintjob create a good contrast between the typical forms of racing Ferrari sports vision. The exterior is further enhanced with a special mount – black lights, side markers and reflectors. Edizione The 747 is equipped with three 20-inch sheet e3 double spoke wheels in size 8.5Jx20 in front and rear axle 12Jx20 wrapped with Michelin Pilot Sport Cup tires sizes 245/30 ZR 20 front and 315/25 ZR 20 on the back.


To be more agile and direct handling, Novitec Rosso has installed a special sports springs that lower ride height Ferrari around 30 millimeters.To provide more suitable for the Scuderia for everyday use, although the reduction, Novitec Rosso offers innovative hydraulic system to lift the front axle. Pressing a button on the front deck is raised up to 40 millimeters, which allows drivers to navigate safely parking ramps, sidewalks and speed bumps the victim. Once past the security barrier, press the button again to return to the starting position suspension. If the front end is inserted back into its original position automatically after the car reached speeds of 80 km / h

Inside, Edizione SupersPort Novitec Rosso has 747 wheels and carbon fiber shift paddles, which are longer than their counterparts in the production and making SuperFast2 manual gearbox F1 transmission even easier. Upon request, in the special edition vehicle also can be redesigned to fit with the pain of two-tone exterior.

Ducati Monster 796 2010

We had anticipated last Friday, when the first rumors took for the imminent arrival of the new Monster 796but not yet available data we wondered if it would be the replacement for 696 or an intermediate model between the entry-level and the 1100 . Ducati unveils the mystery: a new model! The Monster family expands and completes with the arrival of 796 fruit of the marriage between the 696’s handling...Ducati Monster 796 2010

We had anticipated last Friday, when the first rumors took for the imminent arrival of the new Monster 796but not yet available data we wondered if it would be the replacement for 696 or an intermediate model between the entry-level and the 1100 . Ducati unveils the mystery: a new model! The Monster family expands and completes with the arrival of 796 fruit of the marriage between the 696’s handling...

New Cars Modification

Energy Secretary Unveils Plan For Hydrogen-Car Systems

Secretary of Energy Spencer Abraham announced the "National Hydrogen Energy Roadmap" at the recent Global Forum on Personal Transportation in Dearborn, MI. This "roadmap" details a plan for putting fuel cells in the nation's cars and trucks and further committing the United States to a hydrogen-based transportation system.

"Creating the hydrogen fuel cell vehicle of the future presents complex technical challenges," he told business leaders. "Overcoming them will take an intensive and equally complex effort -- but it will be worth it because the stakes really are so high."

The Department of Energy and the nation's leading car and oil companies began work one year ago on the "Roadmap," Abraham said. Alan P. Niedzwiecki, President and CEO of Quantum Fuel Systems Technologies Worldwide, Inc., led the development efforts of the segment addressing hydrogen storage.

"We strongly support the Federal Government's move toward a hydrogen economy and believe that the Roadmap will help guide the nation to solve some of the problems that America faces today with energy independence and environmental concerns." Niedzwiecki added, "We are excited about the implications this Roadmap has for hydrogen storage technology development, and demonstration programs for applications that use hydrogen."

Mercedes-Benz G55 AMG Kompressor Special Edition

Mercedes-Benz staged the premiere of the G55 AMG KOMPRESSOR “Edition 79″, is exclusively destined for the Middle East. Named in reference to the sales start of the G series in 1979, the G55 AMG KOMPRESSOR “Edition 79″ will be built in a limited run of only 70 units. Inside, the limited run G55 AMG sports two-tone designo leather seats, carbon-fibre trim and the Edition logo “1 out of 79″ positioned in front of the selector lever.

2011 Ducati Monster 796 First Ride

His insatiable thirst for life is only surpassed by his monthly fuel bill. Whether rocketing on land, flying through the air, or jumping the seas, our Associate Editor does it all and has the scars to prove it.

Italian motorcycle manufacturer, Ducati has released its first new model of the season: the 2011 Ducati Monster 796. This mid-range street bike fills the void between the entry-level personality of the Monster 696 and the advanced road performance of the Monster 1100. With a base price of $9995, the 796 is a sensible choice for motorcyclists looking for an amusing and easy-to-maneuver motorbike that’s ideal for jaunting in-or-around the city.

The beauty of the Monster line is that the basic architecture of the bikes, including the chassis, air/oil-cooled V-Twin engine configuration, and sleek minimalist body panels are shared between models. However a closer look reveals there are some key differences between this one and its siblings.

The primary difference that distinguishes the mid-level Monster is its use of a 4-valve, 803cc V-Twin, identical to the unit employed in the Hypermotard 796 street bike. Compared to the other Monsters this engine is in a higher state of tune, employing an 11.1:1 compression ratio (versus the Monster 696/1100’s 10.7:1 ratio) courtesy of pistons with a different crown shape. Fuel is received from a 3.8-gallon fuel tank through 45mm throttle bodies, each equipped with a single fuel-injector. Exhaust is piped through a 2-1-2 stainless-steel configuration that terminates with twin shorty-style under-tail mufflers. Each header pipe is fitted with an oxygen sensor which ensures optimum engine running conditions.

A six-speed transmission and a hydraulically-operated APTC clutch control the engine’s power through a chain drive. Furthermore the clutch is bathed within the engine’s oil supply enhancing reliability and reducing noise as compared to the racing-style ’dry’ clutches used on the 1198 Superbike. The clutch also incorporates a slipper/back torque limiting functionality which helps prevent the rear wheel instability during downshifts at high rpm.

The engine is cradled in a lipstick-red steel trellis frame. It attaches to a reworked subframe which is compatible with passenger grab handles that are available as a Ducati accessory ($129). The 796 also gets the same well-crafted single-sided aluminum swingarm as used on the more expensive 1100 model.

Suspension is comprised of a Showa inverted fork and an Sachs hydraulic shock that is mounted directly between the frame and swingarm without a linkage. Although the fork doesn’t offer any damping adjustment, the shock provides spring preload and rebound tuning abilities.

The 796 rolls on a pair of beautiful black 5-spoke cast-aluminum wheels featuring a small red pin stripe around the edge to draw attention to them when in motion. Attached to the front wheel is a pair of 320mm brake discs clamped by a radial-mount four-piston Brembo calipers. Rear brake consists of a solo 245mm disc pinched by a twin-piston caliper. Both brake systems are powered hydraulically through stainless-steel lines. Anti-lock brakes are also available as an option on the new machine however pricing is TBD. Lastly, the wheels are shod with Pirelli Diablo Rosso tires in sizes 120/70-17 front and 180/55-17 rear. Hop into the seat and the first thing you’ll notice is how similar it feels to the smaller 696 model. The bike feels short and skinny, which makes it easy to manhandle on the road. The seat height measures 31.5 in. above the ground which is 0.4 in. lower than the 1100, and 1.2 in. taller than the 696. Grabbing a hold of the aluminum handlebar isn’t as much of a stretch compared to other Monsters courtesy of the bar risers that elevate the bar position by nearly an inch.

Thumb the starter button and the new Ducati fires to life with deep, thumping exhaust note. Surprisingly, the 796 doesn’t get the same sleek slimline switch gear as used on some of the Italian manufacturer’s other new street bikes, including the Streetfighter. Instrumentation is comprised of a small, yet functional, white-backlit LCD display that is both easy to read and quickly operated via the switchgear on the left handlebar.Clutch lever pull is light and offers 4-way lever position adjustment to accommodate different sized hands. The clutch also delivers an ample level of feel for riders who might not have a lot of experience launching a motorcycle. The lower first gear ratio only adds to its user-friendly demeanor when pulling away from a stop. Switching between the remaining five gears was smooth and trouble-free, though we wish the gearbox felt tighter.

Twist the throttle and this Monster delivers a much more robust spread of power compared to the smaller 696. Sure, it won’t win any drag races against a modern liquid-cooled sportbike, yet it will still surprise you with just how much torque it cranks out at low-to-mid rpm. The engine has plenty of juice to loft the front wheel in first gear and is capable of bursts of speed whenever it’s revved out to redline. While the engine delivers a bit of vibration, it never becomes annoying, even at freeway speeds.

In terms of handling the 796 feels every bit as nimble as its smaller sibling. Direction changes can be accomplished with a light touch of the handlebar. The center of gravity also feels low which aids in steering and railing around corners. Though suspension spring rates are calibrated for lighter riders, when pushed this Monster still delivers enough grin-inducing performance for even an experienced, sport-oriented pilot. The bike we rode came equipped with the optional ABS system. By default the system is always on, but you can disable it easily by navigating through the menu system on the instrument display. Braking power and feel is adequate and we appreciated the added confidence provided by the ABS. But we were more impressed by the fact that you can quickly turn it off with a few clicks of a button if you‘re feeling mischievous. We also appreciated that the position of the brake lever could be moved based on rider preference.

If you’re a motorcyclist who covers a lot of ground in the city then the $9995 Monster 796 is a bike you need to consider. It’s an easy machine to ride, looks awesome, and is compact enough to slice through any urban gridlock. Its peppy air-cooled engine not only delivers punchy acceleration but a level of charisma that is sadly missing from many other street bikes in this same price point segment.

Toyota

Like the other big Japanese car manufacturers, Toyota has been a popular candidate for car modification and show car projects. At any show car event you wouldn't just expect to see a modified Toyota Supa but also modified Toyota Carolla and Toyota Aristo cars. These days you can even expect to see a custom Toyota Prius Hybrid or two!

Below are some of the coolest Toyota show cars from around the world...

Testing and Tuning Nitrous Injection Systems

TESTING NOS SYSTEMS

Once you have your nitrous system installed, you must test the system to ensure adequate nitrous and fuel flow. This will ensure proper performance and reliability.

Start by ensuring that the fuel line is properly attached to the fuel solenoid and turn the fuel pump on. You can do this by turning the ignition key to the ACC position. Check for fuel leaks where you tapped into the stock fuel line and where the fuel line feeds into the fuel solenoid. Cure any fuel leaks, check again for fuel leaks and then disconnect the fuel line from the nitrous injector. Activate the system and check for fuel flow when the system is activated, and that the fuel stops flowing when you deactivate the system. If you don't get fuel flow, check that the fuel solenoid is operating properly — you should hear an audible click when the solenoid is activated; check that you have fuel flow at the fuel filter; and ensure that fuel line is not kinked, twisted or bent. If you do have fuel flow, turn the vehicle's ignition off and properly secure the fuel line to the nitrous injector.

Now open the release valve on the nitrous tank check for frost along the nitrous feed line. The frost will indicate a nitrous leak. If you find any leaks, close the release valve on the nitrous tank and cure the leaks. Open the release valve again and ensure that you've cured all nitrous leaks. Then disconnect the nitrous line from the nitrous injector. Activate the system and check for liquid nitrous flow when the system is activated, and that the nitrous stops flowing when you deactivate the system. If you don't get nitrous flow, check that the nitrous solenoid is operating properly; and ensure that nitrous line is not kinked, twisted or bent. If you do have nitrous flow, you can properly secure the nitrous line to the nitrous injector.

TUNING NOS SYSTEMS

Nitrous tuning is another simple procedure but you should first tune your engine without nitrous as you will be running without nitrous for most of the time. Tuning the nitrous system is quite straight forward — you start with the jet sizes recommended by the manufacturer of your nitrous system and gradually adjust the jet sizes until the air/fuel mixture added by the nitrous system is perfect.

So install the jet sizes recommended by the manufacturer of your nitrous system. This will be conservative and will err on the rich size (i.e., too much fuel), which is the safe side to err on. Run you engine for a while with the nitrous activated and then check each of your spark plugs to determine how the air/fuel mixture is burning. The correct air/fuel mixture will produce a brownish, grayish-tan color on the spark plugs. If the spark plugs have a sooty, black color, your air/fuel mixture is too rich and you should increase the nitrous jet to the next jet size. If the metal part of the spark plugs displays a bluish or rainbow coloration, go to a smaller nitrous jet size immediately. Repeat this test until your spark plugs display the correct color. Never jump up by more than one jet size on the nitrous side and never try to work your way down from a lean mixture — that's just looking for trouble and major engine damage. You can make more power by increasing the fuel jet size and then adjusting the nitrous jet size up until your spark plugs display the correct color again.
WARNING: Back off as soon as you get detonation and reduce the size of your nitrous jet!

You may also need to adjust your ignition timing as nitrous oxide makes the air/fuel mixture burn much faster than normal. Retard the ignition timing by 2° increments (i.e., less advance before TDC) until you feel a noticeable loss of power. Then advance the ignition timing by 2°.

Now that that's done, your nitrous system is installed, tested and tuned; all that's left is for you to enjoy responsibly — always enjoy power responsibly!

Installing a Nitrous Oxide System (NOS)

Installing a NOS kit is a simple process of installing the nitrous tank; a few injectors (which are also called nozzles); and a few solenoids; routing a few meters of tubing (or piping) from the nitrous tank and a fuel line to the solenoids, and the solenoids to the injectors; and then fitting a few switches to arm the electrical circuit that energizes the solenoids. If you are installing a Dry System, you don't need to run a pipe from your fuel line to the fuel solenoid as you don't need to install a fuel solenoid but you will need to modify your EFI system to provide the correct amount of fuel when you engage your NOS system. In my experience, the best way to install the nitrous system is to install the nitrous tank first, followed by the injectors and the solenoids, then connect your feed lines, and connect your solenoids to the battery. This will ensure that each of its elements correctly placed to operate at their full potential. If you are installing a Wet System, you must test the system and ensure that the fuel pressure to your fuel solenoid is constant and adequate. This may require that you install a high pressure fuel pump and/or a fuel regulator.

Begin by installing the NOS tank. The correct installation of the tank is important to getting the most out of your nitrous system. As we've mentioned in our basic nitrous system guide, the NOS tank has a siphon tube that extends from the release valve to the bottom of the tank. The siphon tube reaches the side of the tank on the opposite side of the label. Therefore the tank should be installed at a 15° angle, with the label facing up and the release valve facing the front of the vehicle. This will ensure that more of the liquid N2O is used before the siphon tube begins to pick up gaseous Nitrous Oxide, even under acceleration.

Another consideration is the pressure of the NOS tank. The pressure of the NOS tank will fluctuate as the ambient temperature fluctuates. This can cause problems with the correct calibration of your air/fuel mixture. To overcome this problem, you should ensure that the NOS tank is mounted away from heat sources (such as the exhaust system) and out of direct sunlight. You can also use a NOS blanket to insulate the tank.

You should install the injectors next. The placement of the injectors will depend on whether you're installing a system with a single injector, or a Direct Port System that requires one injector per cylinder. When you need just one injector, you should install the injector as close to the throttle body as possible. If you have a rubber inlet hose connected to your throttle body, you must drill a suitably sized hole to fit the injector, and bolt the injector down with a nut and washer on either side of the hose. If you have a cast aluminum manifold, you must drill a hole and tap a thread into the cast aluminum for the injector to screw into. If you are fitting a Direct Port System, make sure that everything that must be fitted to the intake manifold is in place and find enough space on the manifold to fit the injectors. The injectors must be fitted at the same distance from the cylinder head but try not to fit the injectors too close to the cylinder head. Also, wherever you fit the injectors, apply a little locktight to the thread to ensure that the injector does not work itself loose. If you are installing a Direct Port System, you would need to install a distribution block between the solenoids and the injectors. The purpose of the distribution block is to distribute the fuel and nitrous between the injectors. Although it is not crucial, try to install the distribution block so that the tubes are more or less horizontal. The injectors for a Wet System has two inlets — one for fuel and the other for nitrous. You must connect the right tube to each inlet as indicated on the injector.

The next step is to install the solenoids. These should be installed away from the exhaust manifold but as close to the nitrous injectors as possible. The solenoids must also be installed slightly higher than the injectors to ensure that the nitrous and fuel do not need to flow upward as this will reduce the effectiveness of the system. The solenoids are electrically operated; therefore you'll need to run a few electrical cables to the solenoids.

Once you have your hardware in place, you can install the nitrous and fuel supply lines. It is best to route the tubing that carries the nitrous to the engine bay along the stock fuel line as this would be routed securely, and away from heat sources. The tubing should be secured to the vehicle so that it cannot be damaged by abrasion or by moving suspension and drive train parts. You can use nylon tie-wraps to secure the tubing to the vehicle but ½ inch Tinnerman clamps work much better. The tie-wraps or clamps should be placed no further than 18 inches apart. Whenever you route the tube trough a metal body panel, be user to use suitably sized rubber grommets to prevent the body work from cutting through the tube.

If you are using nylon tubing, you can use a sharp utility knife to cut the tube to the correct length leaving about 2 inches of free play at either end for possible flexing. Never cut the tubing too short and never cut the tube using a scissors or wire snips as this will deform the tube and make fitting the olive and nut quite difficult. Once you have cut the tube to the correct length, slide the nut over the tube with the treaded part facing the end of the tube. Never tighten the nut too much as this will cause the olive to compress the tube and will restrict flow through the tube. Then slide the olive over the tube. Secure the nut to the outlet on the NOS tank while keeping the tube in place and repeat the process at the other end where you must secure the nut to the inlet on the nitrous solenoid. The tube from the solenoid to the injector will require the same treatment. You can install the tube from the fuel solenoid to the injector as well but don't secure the tubing to the fittings on injector just yet — you will need to perform a few tests first. Also beware, the injector for a Wet System has two inlets — one for fuel and the other for nitrous. You must connect the right tube to each inlet as indicated on the injector. Next, tap into your fuel line using a metal T or Y splitter and fit the tubing that will supply fuel to the fuel solenoid and connect it to the inlet on the fuel solenoid.

The final step is to install the electrical circuit that will power the solenoids. The NOS solenoid must lift the plunger against the pressure that can be upwards of 800 psi in the system. A fair amount of current (amps) is required to accomplish this task so make sure that the electrical cables can supply the required amperage to lift the plunger. The electrical circuit should supply both solenoids with power and should incorporate a fuse, a microswitch fitted to the accelerator linkage, an arming switch and a relay. Start by disconnecting the negative terminal from the battery. This will prevent you from causing short circuits while working on the electrical system. Run a live wire from the positive terminal of the battery to the fuse box under the dashboard and on to a relay. Another live wire can then be run from the relay to the relay to the solenoids. This wire must carry sufficient current to activate both solenoids. You can fit the arming switch on the live wire between the relay and the solenoids as this wire will run close to the dashboard area; however it is better to place the switches on the earth wire. The earth wire will run from the solenoids to a suitable metal point on the vehicle's body but it is best to run the earth wire to the negative terminal on the battery. You can fit the microswitch to the earth wire as the solenoids would be placed close to the accelerator linkage.

There you have it, you're done. All that's left now is to test the nitrous system and ensure that the pressure to your fuel solenoid adequate, and then tune the nitrous system for best performance.

Turbochargers

The turbocharger, or a just simply the turbo, has been around now for more than a century. It was invented by Swiss engineer named Alfred Buchi in 1905 and was first used on the diesel engines of ships and locomotives from the 1920s. It was used on the engines of production airplanes from the 1930s and on truck engines from the late 1940s. But it only found its way onto the car engine of a production vehicle in 1962 when it was used on the Oldsmobile Cutlass Jetfire.

As a forced induction system, a turbo is nothing more than an air pump that is driven by the exhaust gasses of a car engine. It consists of a compressor-wheel and a turbine-wheel that are connected by a common shaft. The compressor increases the density of the air that enters the intake manifold by forcing more air into the intake manifold than what the car would normally ingest. This higher intake air density contains more air molecules and produces more power when combined with the correct amount of fuel. This is similar to the way NOS allows more fuel to be burned by providing extra Oxygen as explained by Ian. The major difference between NOS and a turbo is that the turbo provides a constant supply of extra Oxygen to the car engine while NOS only provides a limited supply.

You've got three options when it comes to turbocharging a car:
You can simply buy an OEM turbocharged car such as a Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution, a Nissan GT-R, a Nissan 300ZX, a Nissan Silvia spec-R, a Toyota Supra, etc.
You can buy an aftermarket turbo kit for your car engine. Here there are many options to choose from. There are Garrett turbo kits, STS turbo kits, Turbonetics turbo kits, and so much more.
You can also build your own turbo system, which could be the best approach to car engine turbocharging as it gives you the option to build a system that meets your performance requirements and your objectives.

A complete turbo kit consists of the turbocharger as well as the necessary parts required to bolt the turbocharger onto the car engine. This includes an exhaust manifold, intake runners (plumbing to connect the turbo to the intake manifold), and can include an intercooler as well as cooling and lubrication feed lines for the turbo. When building your own turbo system, selecting the perfect turbo for a particular application can be a real challenge as no one turbo is best suited to all applications.

There are a number of things you need to consider when selecting a turbo. These include:
The capacity of your engine.
The number of valves.
At what RPM to you want the turbo to come in.
The type of fuel you plan on using.
The turbo boost you plan on running.
The amount of horsepower you want.

NOS Basics and Layout

The basic nitrous oxide injection system, or a NOS kit, is pretty straight forward and easy to grasp. It consists of a nitrous oxide tank, some tubing, a nitrous solenoid, a fuel solenoid and toggle switch, throttle position microswitch, jets, a nitrous fogger, a relay, nylon pipe, and a distribution block.The nitrous tank is used to store Nitrous Oxide in a liquid form. The tank is actually a pressurized canister as Nitrous Oxide must be compressed to remain liquid at room temperature. Remember N2O reaches boiling point (i.e., it becomes gaseous) at -127° F and more Nitrous Oxide can be stored when it is in a liquid form. Approximately 850 psi of pressure is required to keep Nitrous Oxide liquid at room temperature and at sea level but the nitrous tank must be pressure tested and certified to withstand 1,800 psi. If the certification on your NOS tank is older than five years, your nitrous dealer will not refill it and you will have to have the tank pressure tested and recertified. The tank is mounted in the car's trunk and has a siphon tube that is connected to the release valve and extends to the bottom of the tank. The tank must be mounted at a 15° angle to ensure that the maximum amount of Nitrous Oxide can be released from the tank.

High pressure nylon or Teflon inner-lined braided-steel pipe is used to carry the Nitrous Oxide to the engine where it is regulated by the NOS solenoid. The solenoid is an electrically controlled valve which uses a strong electromagnetic field to open a small plunger the blocks the flow of the liquid Nitrous Oxide. A second solenoid is used to supply extra fuel so that the air/fuel mixture remains constant. Both solenoids are controlled by electric switches that activate the electromagnetic field. The NOS system should have at least two switches — a microswitch that is fitted to the accelerator linkage and is only activated at full throttle; and a spring-loaded momentary switch that is activated by the driver. The microswitch on the accelerator linkage ensures that the nitrous system can only be activated at full throttle. Activating the system during part throttle or during a gear change can have very catastrophic consequences. As an added precaution, the oil pressure switch can also be used to ensure that the system can only be activated when the engine is running and there is oil pressure. Starting an engine with NOS in the combustion chamber can also be very catastrophic.

Some more high pressure nylon or Teflon inner-lined braided-steel pipe is used carry the nitrous and fuel (which are still separate at this stage) to the intake manifold where it is released into the engine via two small jets that are located in a special nitrous injector. The jets must be correctly calibrated to release the correct amount of fuel for a given amount of nitrous. In addition, the pressure on the fuel supply side must be adequate and at a constant level to ensure that the air/fuel mixture is correct at all times. This may require the fitting of an electric fuel pump and a fuel regulator.

The quantity of the nitrous flow depends on the size of the jet fitted. A jet is basically a screw with a whole through it. It's used as a restriction tool depending on the size of the link up orifice. Applying a bigger jet is the easiest way to squeeze a bit more power out of your current system. The fuel supply comes from a similar jetting system.

Barbican Turbo Show

Barbican Turbo Show, Abu Dhabi

The inaugural Barbican Turbo Show, organized by the United Business Media was the hottest and biggest custom car festival ever to hit the UAE. It featured some of the most awesome customized and performance modified cars in the Middle East, all gathered under one roof at the Abu Dhabi National Exhibition Centre in November 2008. Motor clubs displaying their members custom cars included UAE Boost, the VW Club, the Abu Dhabi Riders, SAFE (Society of Auto Owners and Filipino Expats), Pinoy, ExoClass and the Corvette UAE Club. The glittering custom cars on display ranged from well maintained classic cars to pimped-out Hummers and over-the-top street racers!

And as if that wasn't enough, the top Japanese car drifting team, Team Orange Drift, who showed off their in The Fast and the Furious: Tokyo Drift, brought along two orange-striped 450 bhp Subaru Impreza GBDs in which they performed twin-drifts (tsuiou)! Pity the Barbican Turbo Show was staged on the same weekend as the Motorsports Festival at the Dubai Autodrome.

Anyway, here's a collection of images from the event...

How to Install a Motorcycle Alarm the Right Way

This article is written for beginners with little electrical experience; however, some knowledge of electricity and mechanics are assumed. This information is provided by West Coast Cycle free of charge and on an "as is" basis, without any representation or warranty to the products being installed. It is your responsibility to insure proper installation. West Coast Cycle assumes no responsibility with regards to the accuracy or currency of this information. Proper installation in every case is and remains the responsibility of the installer.

We think you've made a good choice in deciding to use an alarm system to protect your motorcycle, after all, in 2005 over 70,000 motorcycles were stolen. Now the question is: "How in the world am I going to install this - there are so many wires." What seems like a hard task is actually not too bad; however, you need to have a least some mechanical ability. You will need to know how to test the polarity of a wire using a digital multi-meter. So if you don't have a clue as to what a multi-meter is, save yourself the headache and take it to a motorcycle shop. Lastly, you will need basic tools to remove some side panels and covers to access the motorcycles wiring.

Gathering Information and Reference Material.

Information is the backbone of your soon to be successful installation. You should gather documents with vehicle specific wiring colors, locations and polarities. These charts are available in a multitude of places, generally free of charge. You can locate this information in the bike's shop manual, at the dealership of the motorcycle, or possibly online.

Planning the Alarm Install.

Your plan will be the difference between a finished product and a job left for next weekend. A few minutes of planning and prepping will yield at least an hour and a half less install time. It's not fun, but it needs to be done! Begin by studying your motorcycle's specific diagram side by side with your bike alarm installation diagram. Identify which features you plan to use on the alarm, not all features are necessary. (e.g., engine immobilizer, remote starting)

Preparing the Wiring.

Before installing, be sure to disconnect the (-) negative terminal of the motorcycle's battery. This will eliminate the possibility of accidental electrical shorts and/or unnecessary battery drain.

Once you identify which features you will install, eliminate the unused wires, if any, to prevent clutter. It is common practice to twist the wires of a same plug together then secure them to each other with black electrical tape. Do not wrap the entire bundle, as different wires go to different locations. Once you finish wrapping all the harnesses, tape them to each other to create one large pigtail containing all of the used wires. This keeps the wires together, secure and free from frays and obstruction. You will now want to identify the locations of the wires which you will connect to on your bike. Here is a hint: the majority of your wires will run from the ignition of your motorcycle back toward the center of motorcycle where the fuse box is usually located. The easiest way to locate these wires is to open the ignition key switch, and test the wires at this point to verify it is the correct wire. You won't want to tap into the wire right next to the ignition. Rather, trace the wire back toward the fuse box or center of the bike where it is closer to the mounting location of the alarm system. This way you won't have to run wires as far. The further you have to run wires the greater chance for something to go wrong.

Execution: Removing the Panels.

The right tools are the difference between bloody knuckles or no sweat. We suggest you seriously consider the specialty items, as they will be handy in other wiring projects in your future. You will want to begin be removing the panels where your wires are located. Be sure to notate where all clips and screws go, there is nothing worse than leftovers - if you know what we mean.

Wiring the Alarm Unit.

Once the panels are removed, you will want to locate a good spot to mount the main alarm module. The harder to see, the better. This will make it much more difficult for a would-be-thief. You will generally tie strap or adhere (if adhesive pad is provided) the module to a support brace or flat surface. Be sure to mount the unit in a location that is not too close to the engine. As a general rule we suggest at least 12 inches from the engine. Also, if an adhesive strip is provided with your alarm system, be sure to prep the surface with rubbing alcohol or degreaser prior to mounting. One of the best locations to mount the alarm module is beneath the seat of the motorcycle. Another possible location is within the spare tool compartment, if you don't mind giving this space up.

Next, run the LED display light, siren, and external antenna, if equipped. Be sure to mount your siren in an obscure location also. At this time, everything which will be plugged into the unit should be. Begin by wiring any necessary relays first, if any are necessary. Most motorcycle alarm systems do not require relays; however, remote starting applications will often require relays on motorcycles with electronic fuel ignition. If you don't have a remote start feature chances are you won't need any relays. Getting these relays out of the way now will save you from a rat's nest of wires. After the relays are wired, begin connecting your wires to the proper locations. You may want to read West Coast Cycle's article on testing wire polarity before making any connections; you can find it at http://www.wcc-tech.com. You should always test wires before you make a connection. Connecting the wires can be done in a number of fashions. You can splice the wires and tape them using electrical tape. You can solder then tape or heat shrink. You can use t-tap connectors, although we personally do not recommend them for long-term use. T-tap connectors work well for preliminary tests of wires, but once you know the alarm system is working correctly, go back and solder the connections. It is completely your preference, but we suggest soldering connections followed by heat shrinking. Just be sure the connection is solid and free of any tension.

Identifying the correct wires.

If you don't know the correct wire color to look for, here is how you can determine the correct wire. We also have an article on the technical support page of our website that offers detailed information on using a multi-meter to locate the correct wires.

Most motorcycle alarm systems have 5 basic alarm system wires:

ACC / Interface Wire: The ACC wire of the Installation Harness connects to the IGN / ACC wire in the bike's ignition key switch harness. The wire you need to find in the bike's harness should be +12v only when the ignition key is switched to the ON position; and if the ignition key is switched off, this wire should not show any voltage. Two tips: This wire runs from the ignition to the fuse box. If the bike already has a factory immobilizer, you can use the ACC alarm wire to shut off the fuel pump or cut the starter line.

Engine Immobilizer Wires: This common alarm system feature always uses two wires. This feature is like connecting a second kill switch to your motorcycle which is housed in the alarm system module and can be shut of via remote. There are three ways to use this feature; we'll address the easiest way here. If you want more information on alternative ways to install this feature see the FAQ section of our website. You need to cut the side of the Kill Switch wire that leads back to the main power of the bike. You then connect one end of the cut wire to one of the two immobilizer wires and the other end of the cut wire to the other immobilizer wire. Hint: it does not mater which end is connect to the immobilizer wires, the feature will work either way.

Power and Ground Wires: We saved the easiest wires for last; we thought you'd appreciate that after all your hard work. All alarm systems have a power and ground wire. It is recommended that you connect the power and ground wires directly to the battery terminals. You may need to purchase wrap-around clamps, terminal taps or extensions for making an easy connection to each battery post. Failure to use the proper connecting method is surefire way to have problems with your alarm system down the road.

Congratulations, your bike is now safer!

Your installation should now be complete. Before putting the panels back on the motorcycle, open your alarm manual. There should be a section which displays the functions of your alarm system; this is great for testing your installation. Go through this process thoroughly. You will want to address any issues immediately. If you are having problems, refer to troubleshooting the troubleshooting section of your alarm system and check all your connections. If not, congratulations!

Saturn Sky Red Line Rear Pictures

Saturn Sky Red Line Rear Angle View

Saturn Sky Red Line Interior

Saturn Sky Red Line Side View

Saturn Sky Red Line Front Angle View

( 2010 ) NEW HONDA VT750S

( 2010 ) NEW HONDA VT750S

The British analysis of Honda appear today that the New Honda VT750S naked bike is now accessible for purchasing at the company’s motorcycle dealerships beyond the country. Sporting a brownish blah finish,the VT750S is advised to be a acceptable best for riders attractive for added abundance and easier handling. Suitable for motorcyclists of all levels of experience, the VT750S is powered by a liquid-cooled, V-twin of 745cc boasting a PGM-FI fuel-injection system.



In Honda’s opinion, “performance is impressive, with the motor advised to accord optimum achievement in the low to mid-section of the rev-range – aloof area you charge it out on the road.”

The anatomy uses a strong, animate bifold cradle design, while the all-embracing anatomy is ablaze and compact. Rounding off the attending are the 19-inch avant-garde and 16-inch/150mm rear wheels. The appearance is aggressive by the Sportster band of American and the apparatus is ultra reliable and tested, based on 52 ° V-twin with a 3-valve SOHC active and 745 cc displacement, the aforementioned as added Honda 750 custom from which it differs mainly for the final drive, alternation instead of drive shaft.

( 2010 ) NEW HONDA VT750S WALLPAPERS

The bench is placed at 737 mm from the arena and active aspect is added “active” than that ultra adequate models Shadow and Black Spirit , this is not too avant-garde through the pegs and handlebars at the about-face comfortably. The spoked auto are 19 inch avant-garde and 16 inch rear tires 100/90-19 and 150/80-16. The brakes accommodate a avant-garde disc 296 mm dual-piston caliper and rear boom of 180 mm. The blush accessible is alone one: ‘Heavy Gray Metallic’.

( 2011 ) NEW KAWASAKI ZX-10R NINJA

NEW KAWASAKI ZX-10R NINJA

The New 2011 Kawasaki ZX-10R Ninja archetypal year. The calendar for the new superbike House Akashi are absolutely “ripe” because the activity aeon of the accepted archetypal ends, the canons actuality spent four years of break on the market.

Last summer, accepting “found” abstruse assets of a new agent “flat” (with accumbent butt bank) anchored by Kawasaki at the all-embracing apparent office, we affected the abstruse analysis of new horizons by Japanese engineers, the research, conceivably a college akin of drivability, as occurred in off-road by Husaberg Yamaha aboriginal and again with their latest distinct cylinder.

The little advice that can be accepted from the actual appear today assume to instead ascertain a absolutely new architecture but not too far from the archetypal blueprint of a 4-cylinder superbike. The anatomy of the cine breadth the bike after keels is set on the dyno you can see the anatomy is aluminum ambit bifold girder, the swing-arm differentiated breadth of generous, light-alloy auto with three spokes and a codon in appearance Kawasaki Z1000 ” (thin and not too accursed up).

The shock should be abundant absorbed with accelerating bond and positioned aloft the axial allotment of the beat arm, apparently to accomplish allowance for the bankrupt system, with pre-chamber amid beneath the axis aspect aquiver and low muffler on the appropriate side. As for the fork, it is about taken for accepted the intriduzione Showa BPF, as has already been done on the “sister” Kawasaki ZX-6R.

The account shows close curve and multifaceted, with the big aperture air assimilation amid centrally on the windshield to aerate the burden of aqueous intake. Extreme is additionally the adventure for bigger aerodynamics, with a plexiglass abundant inclined, and conceivably an breadth to “double layer” for the abandon of the fairing.

As for the abstruse abstracts is not accepted but acutely annihilation in our assessment it is believable to accomplish a accustomed declared 200 bhp timberline (without absolute air induction), in the deathwatch of aftermost trend launched by BMW with S1000RR, able of 193 hp, the best able superbike alternation currently marketed. Among the advantages of the new Ninja superbike will absolutely additionally a akin of awful avant-garde cyberbanking ascendancy of power, with assorted mapping and absorption control.

2011 NEW KTM 350 SX-F PREVIEW

2011 NEW KTM 350 SX-F

Dirt Rider was out today to get the aboriginal ride on the 2011 KTM 350 SX-F, one of the best talked about machines of the decade. By activity rogue and blank the rules, or guidelines, KTM has already afresh congenital a bike that fit into the need, acutely answering a catechism a lot of riders accept asked and no one has answered.

2011 NEW KTM 350 SX-F ENGINE PICTURE

The 350 is aloof that, a 350. Smack-dab in the average of area accepted 250Fs and 450Fs are. It is like that in weight feel (245 pounds, abounding of gas) and in power. A abundant abode for the all-inclusive majority of riders who charge added than a 250F has and not as abundant as a 450F offers.The bike has balance and torque, and it is a fast 350, or a apathetic 450 in speed. Unless you rev it, again it is like a fast 450. How? Well, it gets traction. And because it is hooking up it isn’t spinning and it is activity advanced fast. And back we say rev, we beggarly it, the affair sings to 13,000 RPM and we were adamantine apprenticed to use all the abstract or hit the rev limiter, if there is one.

2011 NEW KTM 350 SX-F WALLPAPER

The bike feels a lot added like a 250F than a 450 in weight. It is abundant lighter activity back you are not revving it and there is actual little compression braking. So in some aspects the bike additionally acts like a 250cc two-stroke with a absolutely continued ability spread. The FI was flawless.

NEW BMW K 1300 GT EXCLUCIVE EDITION

NEW BMW K 1300 GT EXCLUCIVE EDITION

We allocution about the BMW K 1300 GT Exclusive Edition, which debuts in contempo canicule by abacus some capacity “Comfort” and “security” on a admission that is already actual complete.Heated grips and saddle, for example, are standard, as are the xenon headlights cruise controlThe onboard computer and alive abeyance adjustment ESA Exclusive Edition II (Electronic Abeyance Adjustment II).

Exclusive Edition amalgamation additionally includes the absorption ascendancy ASC DRC but additionally the adjustment that controls every burning the annoy pressure. Trai additional additionally the top homes from 49 litersObviously corrective in anatomy color.

NEW BMW K 1300 GT WALLPAPER

Nothing new, however, for the four-cylinder. Featuring a actual adjustment of cylinders agee forward, the 1,293 cc delivers Monaco 160 hp at 9,000 rpm and 135 Nm of torque at 8,000 rpm. To admit the new model, accessories apart, aloof stop attractive at backlog area: Classic frieze K1300GT in “relief”, in fact, uses belletrist instead of the acceptable dejected burnished.

The K 1300 GT Exclusive Edition is now accessible at BMW Motorrad dealers. Amalgamation amount is Exclusive Edition Euro 1650. The bike is so able has a account amount of 20,550 euros including aboriginal advertisement ICD.



The K 1300 GT Exclusive Edition has heated grips and seat heating and a xenon headlamp for visibility during night riding. The on-board computer provides travel-related data such as range, outside temperature and average fuel consumption and there is an electronic cruise control function for long stretches of motorway riding. The new special edition touring model from BMW is also equipped with a pannier system and a large 49-litre topcase with common-key lock barrel and lid finished in body colour. The bike is finished in Granite Grey metallic with contrasting trim parts in Granite Grey metallic matt in the area of the fuel tank side fairing and seat side fairing and has a blue type plate.

2010 NEW BMW F 800 GS

2010 NEW BMW F 800 GS PHOTO

The 2010 BMW F 650 GS and F 800 GS accept new colours as a touch-up for the new year. The F 650 GS will be accessible in Lava Orange Metallic, White Aluminium Matt Metallic and Biarritzblue Metallic. The colours of Iceberg Silver Metallic, Flame Red and Azure Blue Metallic are no best available.

The BMW F 800 GS 2010 is accessible in Lava Orange Metallic/Black Satin and Alpine White. The colours that will not be accessible are Dark Magnesium Metallic Matt and Sunset Yellow/Black Satin. The 2010 F 800 S will accept agleam atramentous auto while the F 800 ST will accept a atramentous engine.

2010 NEW BMW F 800 GS WALLPAPER

2010 NEW BMW F 800 GS Specification

Engine and transmission
Displacement: 798.00 ccm (48.69 cubic inches)
Engine type: Twin
Stroke: 4
Power: 84.48 HP (61.7 kW)) @ 7500 RPM
Torque: 83.00 Nm (8.5 kgf-m or 61.2 ft.lbs) @ 5750 RPM
Compression: 12.0:1
Bore x stroke: 82.0 x 75.6 mm (3.2 x 3.0 inches)
Fuel system: Injection. Electronic intake pipe injection / digital engine management (BMS-K)
Valves per cylinder: 4
Fuel control: DOHC
Starter: Electric
Cooling system: Liquid
Gearbox: 6-speed

Transmission type
final drive: Chain
Clutch: Multiple-disc clutch in oil bath, mechanically operated
Physical measures
Dry weight: 185.0 kg (407.9 pounds)
Weight incl. oil, gas, etc: 207.0 kg (456.4 pounds)
Seat height: 880 mm (34.6 inches) If adjustable, lowest setting.
Overall height: 1,350 mm (53.1 inches)
Overall length: 2,320 mm (91.3 inches)
Overall width: 945 mm (37.2 inches)
Wheelbase: 1,578 mm (62.1 inches)

Chassis and dimensions
Frame type: Tubular steel space frame, load-bearing engine
Rake (fork angle): 26.0°
Trail: 117 mm (4.6 inches)
Front suspension: Upside-down front fork, Ø 45 mm
Front suspension travel: 230 mm (9.1 inches)
Rear suspension: Cast aluminium dual swing arm, WAD strut (travel related damping), spring pre-load hydraulically adjustable (continuously variable) at handwheel, rebound damping adjustable
Rear suspension travel: 215 mm (8.5 inches)
Front tyre dimensions: 90/90-V21
Rear tyre dimensions: 150/70-V17
Front brakes: Double disc
Front brakes diameter: 300 mm (11.8 inches)
Rear brakes: Single disc
Rear brakes diameter: 265 mm (10.4 inches)
Exhaust system: Closed-loop 3-way catalytic converter, emission standard EU-3

2010 NEW SUZUKI GSX1250FA TRAVELER

NEW SUZUKI GSX1250FA TRAVELER

SUZUKI GSX1250FA Traveler 2010 is able with 37-liter top box with black awning and acclimation support, from 33-liter saddlebags and windshield with addition capricious for greater aegis from air . For those absent article more, however, Suzuki Italy offers a actual all-encompassing account of alternative accessories, alignment from rear fender to bout the set central bag for panniers through elements such as bracket Navigator, the catchbasin bag (from 7 to 15 / 22 liters) the bolt awning or the aboriginal motorcycle anxiety beacon.

1255 cc, four cylinder, DOHC 16-valve administration and best achievement of 98 hp at 7,500 rpm, the Suzuki FSX1250FA offers a actual acceptable cycle, abnegating the angle elements such as backward angle while no curtailment of such affairs as rear swingarm and monoshock with accelerating linkage, admixture wheels, three-spoke sports tires 120/70-17 "ant. and 180/55-17 "post. advanced anchor discs and 310 mm. Series, such as ABS, including the adjustable bench acme (20 mm) and the centermost stand.

2010 NEW SUZUKI GSX1250FA TRAVELER WALLPAPER

Model Suzuki GSX 1250 FA Traveler Specification
Year 2010

Engine Liquid cooled, four stroke, transverse four cylinder, DOHC, 4 valves per cylinder

Capacity 1254.8
Bore x Stroke 79 x 64 mm
Compression Ratio 10.5:1

Induction Fuel Injection

Ignition / Starting Digital transistorized / electric

Max Power 98 hp
Max Torque @ 7500 rpm


Transmission / Drive 6 Speed / chain

Front Suspension Tlescopic, oil damped, preload adjustable

Rear Suspension Link-type suspension, 7-way adjustable preload, 4-way adjustable rebound

Front Brakes 2x 310mm discs 6 piston calipers

Rear Brakes Single 240mm disc

Front Tyre 120/70-ZR17

Rear Tyre 180/55 ZR17

Seat Height 805 mm - 825 mm

Dry-Weight 257 kg / 567 lb

Fuel Capacity 19 Litres